August 19, 2010
The New York Pizza Burger ($12.99), edible chimera, is the Dangermouse of fast food. It’s an homage to New York created by a Texan corporate chef in Miami for transient tourists to the city. The Burger is available only in New York for the moment — Chef Sullivan’s “fast food translation of the locavore movement” — but, pending its success, might be rolled out nationwide. The thing is large, served on a nine-and-a-half-inch sesame bun and is meant to be shared. “You know,” said Sullivan, “You look at people like Paul Kahan who is doing communal dining at Avec. That’s something I was thinking about with the New York Pizza Burger.” The Burger is meant to contain “pepperoni, mozzarella cheese, marinara sauce and Tuscan pesto sauce” but when Sullivan opened the pizza box in which the burger comes, I saw only a sesame-studded Frisbee with a cheese antumbra. The pepperoni, marinara and Tuscan pesto sauce — though pesto is traditionally a Ligurian specialty — and even the meat were obscured by the deluge of cheese. I took a “slice.” “Oooh,” said Schaufelberger, “You got a good one. Sometimes the patties overlap and you get double meat. It’s a good sign.
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